Day 24 –Amroth to Carmarthen

 

Date: Wednesday 24^th June 2009  Distance: 24.17

 

 Elegant breakfast, elegant hosts, everything done very nicely. I loved Amroth (probably only a little more than Bob.) It was a hilly ride out through country lanes with high hedges. The foxglove spikes through the wild verges have stayed with us throughout but there is less honeysuckle than in mid Wales.

 

We stopped for simple sandwich lunch at St. Clears in a little café near Black Lion Hotel. Then we headed East and crossed the horrible A40. For other people taking this route the cycle route completely misses out St. Clears, but if you go down to the village, turn right at the traffic lights and continue through the village you come to a place where the buses turn around, and you can cross the A40 here. There is an island in the middle for safer crossing.

 

The cycle path left us high and dry in a very bad place. Picking up the cycle path again it took us on the right side of the A40 for a few yards, then the old A40, then A40 again and finally back into lanes where we hardly saw anyone, no shops or pubs until nearly in Camarthan.

 

For a large town there were few B and Bs and hotels. We procured the last double bedroom in the Boars Head Hotel and got space in special room leading to the cellars for the tandem.

 

It was quiet for dinner-just us. Bob chose sewen(sea trout) and I had vegetarian curry. We were seated in ceremony only minutes later to be told the sewen was not available after all and sir could choose anything on the menu free of charge. They never told us what happened to it. Cat? Floor? Gone off? Burnt? Anyway he enjoyed his substitute dish, a juicy rib eyed steak.

 

The room was hot and noisy being on the main street but we hoped it would quieten later. It never did. The other party of cyclists came to the room next door to ours in the early hours and had noisy exchanges then got up at 6 am.

 

                  

 

        

Day 23 –Rosemarket to Amroth

 

Date: Tuesday 23^rd June  2009   Distance: 25.88

 

On the cyclepath near a beautiful little area of ponds teeming with wildlife Westfield Pill( lucky people have seen otters at daybreak) we met another couple on a Thorn tandem. We exchanged anecdotes then saw that the path was up steps. On a cyclepath?? We made it to the top and cycled into  busy Pembroke. We stopped near the castle for elevenses and watched ducklings swimming on murky waters.

The cycle route took us through Manorbier a very picturesque place. There were lots of people parked for the beach but it wasn’t over crowded. A woman staying in the only hotel said that the place is “paradise” and it was certainly charming with its castle ruin and overrun garden look. A quiet pub (because everyone was by the sea) further up the village served good beer and food and surprisingly there was a little Spa shop.

 

We cycled on to Tenby and I was surprised to find it characterful. I had expected something more like Blackpool. The cycle way took us along quiet lanes but mostly off road and the next section from Saundersfoot, where we arranged our next nights stay through the tourist board at the information kiosk, was most enjoyable. Most paths in Wales have had really good surfaces It follows the waters edge towards Coppet Hall and disused railway tunnels. We had to put the bike lights on because they were quite dark. Tiny stalagmites hung down from a drippy ceiling and a cyclist is required to walk through these. There were views back to Tenby and Saundersfoot  ( which seemed the most touristy to me but the ice-cream was yummy) and forwards to a gem of a place Amroth.

 

The B and B had several guests arrive at the same time and we were all put in the garden with tea and cakes. We could just see the sea from our room and the garden backed onto National Trust land. A short downhill walk brought us to the seafront where there were a few eating places and a shop. Several people were trying their hand at line fishing as a large shoal of giant sea bass were creating dark shadows near the shore. I had hoped they were dolphins or shark but nonetheless they were impressive.

 

After an enormous meal (homemade Tiramisu was a mistake as the coffee liqueur kept me awake that night) we went back to the house to await a call for a nocturnal badger watch at the kitchen door. They came later than expected at nearly eleven but there were 3, an adult and 2 young. There are 2 sets, one either side of the road and these came from near the stream at the side of the garden. Chicken bones, bacon and jam sandwiches were put down the other side of glass doors and we could watch with torches in the dark.

 

       

Day 22 –Broad Haven to Rosemarket Monday 22nd June 2009

Day 22 –Broad Haven to Rosemarket

 

Date: Monday 22^nd June  2009  Distance: 31.11

 

The lack of smile and forced politeness seemed very intimidating and though breakfast was very nice I couldn’t wait to leave the dining room. Bob paid the bill then I went back to say thank you and received the first bit of personal attention- she used my name. Maybe I should have persevered with her and her ice might have melted sooner. Anyway we were on the road early because of this and we had a boat trip lined up if we got there in time. A small boat left a bay near Marloes for Skomer Island. Sometimes they land but not on Mondays. Often the weather prohibits going right round the perimeter of the island but they were risking it today because the sea was a millpond. It cost £10 each and there were about 20 people on the boat including small children and dogs. It can and does take 50 at the height of the season. We were lucky as everyone seemed friendly and chatted to each other- especial interest was shown in the tandem propped up by some rocks.

 

The water was very clear as we left the shore and crabs and jelly fish could be seen swimming. As we started to chug round the right side of the island cross tides made huge waves and we were all a little alarmed. These old hands though made us feel that this was really nothing to worry about and the thousands of sea birds certainly made such an impression that even scaredy-cat me found the spectacle overweighed the discomfort of the few minutes of rough sea. There is no bird for me as comical as a puffin. I would have been happy to see one but they were too numerous to count- this is the puffin stronghold this time of the year.

 

Back to Marloes for yet another pub lunch and an afternoon of busier roads and an oil refinery at Milford Haven. Then arrived at farm where checked in for Band B. We left the bags and went for a reckie. What a difference the bags make.

Despite an unfavourable report about the closest pub for dinner we decided to give it a go. The landlord was supping the beer we ordered so that had to be a good sign. It was horrible! Bob just looked at his cloudy pint but I drank some of mine before declaring it undrinkable. Meanwhile a cockroach lay on its back struggling to stand up. He had probably drunk some of the beer! That was it – the meal was definitely off. We paid and left. So 2 miles in the other direction we found a pub The Huntsman’s Inn, where the people were friendly and cooked us a meal despite it not really being a day they cook. Maybe we looked desperate.

 

The saniflow system at the farm was terribly noisy and farm smells were ever present but the bed was huge and they kindly locked the bike away for us. I found the flies worrying and I suppose standards are never going to be the same as at an ordinary home. The young couple seemed to be rather isolated from the community. The pub at the bottom never saw them. I expect farmers to be healthy looking but they both covered themselves up which is probably sensible but not what you expect. A strange pair!

 

Day 21 Fishguard to Broadhaven sunday 21st June 2009

Day 21 –Fishguard to Broad Haven

 

Date: Sunday 21^st June    Distance: 20.12

 

Lovely breakfast as usual with an extra surprise. We’d been talking about the garden and growing asparagus. Our host had noticed 4 young stems that morning he cooked them especially for us. We were already full but we greatly appreciated their kindness and they were tasty. As with all the bed and breakfast and pubs where we ate there was only one with Welsh owners at least where detectable dialects were concerned. Andrew and Therese came from Sussex.

 

We left later than usual at 10.30. It was less hilly but we had decided to miss out the coast covered by our bus rides so we set off a little inland. It was rural with high banks to the sides of the fairly narrow lanes.

 

At Newgale we were back at the coast at The Lord Nelson for a crab sandwich and steak baguette washed down with real ale. We seem to be doing quite well for beer in Wales this time! A Japanese lad cycling on his own took our photo and we chatted to somebody who had been snorkelling with his son and spotting manx shearwaters. It turned out he was friends with the proprietor of the next B and B. We are coming to realise it’s quite a small world and perhaps we should be more guarded before we pass comment as you never know who has connections with who.

 

Passed an Eco house built into the grassy land and you could see straight through the house to the sea beyond. Afternoon tea was at a disorganised hotel where they “lost” our order and we had paid. We saw the paddle steamer which always runs on Father’s Day from Milford Haven.

 

Our room wasn’t large but it had an excellent view across the bay and the sunset was spectacular. Despite being told that our American host was friendly we found her really hard to talk to, in fact she was rather robotic and I had the feeling we had offended in some way though she was ultra polite.

 

Our cheapest meal was at the Galleon Inn at £4.99 a meal and it was perfectly satisfactory.

 

                        

 

Day 20 –Fishguard Bus ride

 

Date: Saturday 20^th June    Distance: None

 

We had a good night except for the rowdy Australians arriving back at 12.05 and making a lot of noise till 1. It was the most delicious breakfast. To start we had a huge plate each covered in different prepared fruits, melon, grapes, raspberries, strawberries, kiwi etc all in a creative pattern. The cooked breakfast was good too and

we were encouraged to eat their home-made jams and lemon curd and croissants too.

We had done our washing in their machine and hung it out to dry then collected the tandem from the cycle shop. A new chain and sprocket and fitting cost £57 and Bob thought it well worth it.

 

We stuck to our day off though and took a bus to St. Davids. It was 1 hour and 20 minutes down hairy scary lanes, especially at Strumble Head,when the bus went into reverse at the cliff edge. This was called the Strumble Shuttle ( there was also the Celtic Coaster and Poppit Rocket) There were many glorious sea views and we stopped at all the little villages on route.

 

We caught a Celtic Coaster to St Justinians where we hoped to catch a boat round one of the islands. We were the only passengers and our driver gave us the low down on some of the local inhabitants showing us where they lived. He had rather a bee in his bonnet about an octogenarian who lived on his own on a run down farm of lots of good agricultural land. From this farm sea views were extensive and he believed the National trust to be the beneficiaries when he dies. Meanwhile it all goes to wrack and ruin.

 

The boat had just gone – a little harbour literally in the middle of nowhere- but the men on shore offered to call it back. We took one look at the shallow sided craft and the waves and declined.

 

It wasn’t long till the next Celtic Coaster and we took it back to see the Cathedral at St Davids. Standing at the back of a wedding ceremony Pat was able to sing with the congregation- Guide me o thou great redeemer. “Cwm Rhondda” - We were truly in Wales! The girls choir was fantastic. There are 3 in all. Many people gathered outside to wish the couple well. It was a lovely hot sunny day and the stream, between cathedral and the ruin of the bishop’s house, was visited by many iridescent, turquoise-blue damselflies. They were mesmerising.

 

As with a lot of Wales so far there were missed opportunities for tourism. Cafes were closed at 4 or not open at all (We had to have a drink in a pub instead!) There were not many shops to look at either though Pat did buy a second hand St Trinian’s book.

The infrequent bus came at 5 and it was belt up for the kamacarsi journey back to Fishguard. The lanes were just big enough for the bus sometimes and we did have a near miss – even the locals exclaimed!

Day 19- st Dogmaels to fishguard

Date: Friday 19^th June    Distance: 23.83 Miles

Day 19 –St Dogmaels to Fishguard

 

ay 19

Despite hilly cycle ride via  Poppit Sands and cycleway to Salutation Arms at  Crymch (Felindre Farchog) disappearing into a field and visitor centre for a cup of tea not being on route as expected from map and Ford being there when not marked and bike chain breaking 3 times – this ride was much nicer than previous day. Can’t think why? Must have been the scenery and lack of traffic or the jolly good luck we had at the end.

 

We had a lovely pint( Felinfoel) at the Salutation Arms and tasty locally sourced  cheese. This pub actually provided diabetic ice cream!

 

After cycleway coming to a dead end we took little road leading off main road to Newport so yet again we had quiet lanes for pedalling. In the middle of the countryside was a public convenience by a small “breathing space” natural area (Strange, as everywhere was fields and woods anyway) We were intrigued by the numbers of tadpoles still swimming in the pond. A lady was picking elderflowers for cordial and she told us about the sewen- river trout that are favoured by the locals and occasionally taken from the nearby river.

 

Just 5 miles from Upper Fishguard the chain broke for the 3^rd time and Bob couldn’t shorten it any more so we walked up hills and free- wheeled down. Luckily on the edge of the town at 4.45 (They closed at 5) we found a really helpful bike shop that had been open just a year. We left the tandem for the night and carried the bags down to the Lower Town where we had booked B and B for 2 nights. A rest was in order and what a lovely stop it was.

 

The Royal Oak at the top of the hill( it was a very steep climb and we were offered a lift but it seemed a bit wimpy so we declined!)) provided a superb steak and Guinness pie (so good Pat had it 2 nights running!)

 

    

Day 18 – Cross Inn to St Dogmaels

Day 18 – Cross Inn to St Dogmaels

 

Date: Thursday 18^th June    Distance: 23.08 Miles

 

 Enjoyed our stay. Several of B and Bs seem to be selling jewellery or handmade cards as a side- line and it was good to find something suitable to buy from here.

It was down hill to the first cove strangely, where Welsh Mist soon became a downpour and everyone made a beeline for the café. School children were on a trip with compasses and maps and there was a babble of the Welsh language.

Leaving again we climbed several very steep roads, the highest being 600 feet. The sides of the road were wooded and lush with many different types of ferns. Sharp descents were as bad and we walked when the brake blocks started to smell of burning rubber.

The highest priced sandwiches yet, at £6.99, were had at the Ship Inn, where dolphins were sighted the day before in the bay. (All part of the larger Cardigan Bay)

After a Living Rainforest stop for a café ( any excuse for a rest now!) the terrain improved only to find the tandem slipping on steep slippery road surfaces and we had to peddle against the wind (Bob thought 30 mile an hour at one point)

Got to St. Dogmaels for B and B with slight panic about food. Exhausted and hungry we were not up for anymore riding and the inn over the road was shut for a wedding. Luckily up another hill half a mile away we found an inn that did a super mixed grill and spare ribs. Outside here was parked a colourful bus for counselling and advising children.

We learn in Fishguard that our hostess is a local councillor which could explain her manner and her distractedness as her mind seems on higher things. It was up steep steps for the tandem and then out the back with the concrete mixer despite being a bike friendly place! This was in the future as they were having a state of the art shower room and wet clothes room built for the walkers and cyclists, also covered storage. We did think that just ordinary shed would have been just as useful and they tried so hard at breakfast they missed the mark. Huge plates like in trendy restaurants with a tiny amount of bright yellow scrambled egg and home-made bread with lots of different seeds- not everyone’s taste. When Pat commented on the bed being OK for sleeping she said that she knew it was comfortable as it was their old bed. Something a bit wrong here? I made the mistake of saying I would like porridge with Soya milk (lovely the way I make it) but oatmeal was soaked the night before and what came to the table was a solid gristy meal like was served at Quarry Bank Mill to the apprentices.It was nice of her to try but I wish she hadn’t because out of politeness I had to eat most of it.

           

coast day 17 2009

 

 

 

Day 17 – Aberystwyth to Cross Inn

 

Date: Wednesday 17^th June    Distance: 27.32 Miles

 

After a canteen style breakfast, fairly good but impersonal, we had left by 9.30. The bike was as we had left it amid the furniture and we set off in wind and rain on an uphill haul on a fast main road. We wore capes but after a while it felt like the wind would tip us off. Wet through we stopped in a bus shelter. The traffic was getting us down and it was a fight with the elements on a steady up. A garage with a café provided a warm drink and snack but in dripping clothes it was more comfortable to stand than sit.

 

Our first taste of the Welsh beer Felinfoel came at The Royal Oak  pub at Aberaeron. Over a beer and a sandwich we whiled away an hour chatting to a welsh couple who now live in Chester. Then a group of students arrived, very taken with the tandem. They asked us to hold their T -shirt advertising their group that puts on children’s plays (on thought provoking issues like ecology) so they could photograph us for their web site!!

 

We cycled up and up for miles until a short down into New Quay where we needed to find accommodation for the night. There was nothing local suitable for the bike but the lady in the information booth booked us into one about 4 miles away. She waived the £2 booking charge, as it was nearly their closing time. One of the young people on official dolphin watch came over to talk tandem but we didn’t stay long as we were exhausted. New Quay is much smaller than expected.

 

We walked another 2 miles up hill to pub where we had dinner and more good beer, before we carried on. It was simple homely food and again we had friendly people to chat to.

 

There was another uphill for another 2 miles and we saw a kite at close range hunting in the fields. When we reached the small holding that was the B and B. they had put a wood burning stove on especially for us to dry out in our own sitting room.

Pat was impressed with the solar panels, which helped make the water very hot. Pigs and poultry, destined for the table in the Autumn, inhabited the garden and this place definitely made the best cooked breakfast anywhere.  Apart from the shock of the shower (which had nozzles pointing in different directions) which sent water onto the ceiling and over the door due to high water pressure, this was a relaxing stay.

   

   

The next trip was 12 days long from Porthmadog to Swansea. Instead of taking the car we rode 9 miles to Wilmslow where we caught a train for Shrewsbury late morning and then another to Porthmadog- 5 hours in all but it seemed the best way to do it. It was only 14 miles of mostly cycleway to find the B and B this first day.Goats peered in through our bedroom window. The only place open for food was a Bangladeshi restaurant called The Lemon Tree- delicious korma but even the English food was spicy. Sundays in Wales can be difficult.

The next day the ride through to Barmouth via Harlech was on the main road but quiet. At the Toll Road(free to us) there were many sheep on the beach wallowing in the warm sand. We cycled on the causeway to Shell Island that was one well- spaced camp site with lovely views out to sea. If you get caught by the tide here it's a 6 hour wait but apparently this only happens once every 2 weeks.
We lunched at Llanaber and sat watching a gently rolling sea looking across to The Llyn peninsula hoping for the glimpse of a dolphin.
After a total of 32 miles we arrived at Coed Talon, our B and B, on the edge of a higgledy piggledy pretty village, Llwyngwril, with a river walk down to a stony beach. There was a resident family of lesser spotted woodpeckers to watch and we ate in the only local pub.

The next day we were heading for Aberystwyth. After stopping for morning coffee in Tywyn we perused the rail timetable and instead of going up the valley to Machynlleth and then back the other side we took a short ride for 2 stops on the train to Dovey Junction - check the osprey nest- which took us over a bridge to the other side. It removed 10 miles through midge infested trees and we had already been to Machynlleth several times for the Alternative Technology Centre in the past. The guard was surprised we were getting off here and said did we know it was the middle of nowhere. It was a lovely spot.

It was a quiet road to Tre-r-ddo for lunch then Borth with a high sea wall and straight row of houses facing the sea. There was an internet cafe that was useful for finding cycle friendly hotels in Aberystwyth( we hadn't bothered prebooking being a large University town)
We set off up a very steep hill. We climbed a lot during the next 7 miles and the road was very busy with fast cars. It was really hot!

After 31 and a half miles we found a gem. A bit over the top with brass and glass furniture and our second 4 poster bed and a jacuzzi. With the window open we heard the sea all night. The tandem was locked in an underground car park without doors surrounded by old furniture and beds.We walked round the castle at dusk and as the sun set people lit camp fires on the beach.

It was surprisingly impersonal at breakfast and we left by 9.30 in wind and rain on an uphill haul on a busy main road. We wore capes but after a while it felt like the wind would tip us off. Wet through we stopped in a bus shelter. The traffic was getting us down. We had a hot drink at a garage but I stood rather than squelch in my wet clothes.

We cheered up at the Royal Oak pub in Aberaeron where