Day 113 Lochinver to Ullapool

 

 Date: Sunday 29^th July 2012   Distance: 33.49 Miles

 

Breakfast was at 8 and we were surprised at how many people had been secreted by the building. The dining room was full. We were sat on our own in the sitting room with a view of the loch. After filling in a little sheet to say what we wanted for breakfast it came and was mostly good apart from the undercooked sausage. They would have made a packed lunch but we decided to buy from the local shop.

 

I was surprised how much shelter could be got from trees with small leaves or pine needles when it decided to shower again. Mostly we were on a single track with passing places but it was less steep today. At midday we had been caught up by the German family of 5. The oldest boy noticed he had a puncture and proceeded to turn the bike upside down and began the mend. Later in the trip we learned that they had hired the bikes which we thought a bit risky when they were doing hundreds of miles. We were beginning to enjoy our encounters and brief stilted conversation and thought they would catch us up again but they didn’t until we got to the Ulapool sign. They had punctured again and had a leisurely time in the sun by the loch near Ulapool later in the afternoon.

 

We had our sandwiches on a rock by the road but there was nowhere to prop up the bike. We’d been carrying the old wheel in case... But the new one seemed good and we’ll ditch the old tomorrow keeping the dynamo. We were back to speeding downhill! There were just hills and water. A car park for walkers would have provided a seat -too late. Car drivers were mostly polite and patient calling out that we must be very hardy and “good on you!” Even our German patriarch said we had his respect- perhaps he thought we were really old! Anyway they cycled further than us with their entire family and in good humour despite sometimes awful weather.

 

Just before the main road, on the right, fell a huge waterfall and then a campsite on the shores of a loch, where we bought a hot drink and snack. People had built towers of rocks, cairns, in imaginative ways rather like sandcastles in stone. We were told that our destination was another 2 hills up and then a mile up a steeper one which seemed a bit discouraging. A huge lorry load of fish went by spraying us and 2 walkers with fishy water as it went. It spilled out as it climbed the road and we smelt fish for ages as it went over clothes and bike.

 

We met our German friends by the bridge over the falls as we came into Ulapool. They would be staying in the Youth Hostel which they found better than the previous 2 places as it provided them with hot water in their own private bathroom they said later.

 

We had to travel on a bit out of town 3 miles following the sat nav into the Braes to a large white house called Tamarin Lodge. The bike went in the garage, through which we went to get to our rooms on the first floor. What a modern architectural gem. We had a bedroom, dressing room and lovely bathroom and lovely views. A taxi took us back to town and Tescos for food for the next day which would be remote again. The trip cost £4 wherever the pickup wanted to go. Tescos were selling off all sorts of goodies and I bought 2 Danish pastries for 12p.

 

We walked to one of the eating places on the harbour front passing the German family going into the Indian Restaurant. We went to the Arch Inn where we were a bit disappointed. Bob had massive fish and chips but my dish, more expensive too, was meagre with hardly any potato or vegetables. They did bring me more crushed potatoes though.

 

The taxi back was driven by a man instead of the earlier lady and he is leader of the local pipe band and he said that they played at Durness and 2 of their number are world class in their accomplishment.