Day 138 New Abbey to Carlisle

 

Date: Wednesday 31^st July 2013   Distance: 49.89 Miles

 

We decided this was one of the nicest pubs we’ve stayed in. It was a tasty breakfast and the girls from Latvia served with such friendliness. Although a bit gruff the landlord was genuinely interested in our coast challenge.

 

The water powered Corn Mill was open when we left but we decided to press on, expecting rain later. We didn’t stop till Dumfries when we took the cycle- way alongside the river where ducks were amusing everyone in their fight over a worm. After 12 miles we stopped for tea at a cafe at Glencaple. Bob was amused by a sign saying that they were sorry that they couldn’t serve hot food today due to the heat in the kitchen. The lift for wheelchairs had broken at the top of the stairs which stranded a man in a chair at the top. Refusing offers of help he proceeded to take the lifts components apart in the hopes of mending it.

 

The way became very flat as sign posts by the water warned of quicksand. We had a good speed even against the wind and we came off the cycleway at Caerlaverock Castle. Another deep red sandstone building (HS) of triangular structure it was built in the 13th century with add- ons in the 17th century. It was about £5 to go round. A small trebuchet replica and children’s playground are in the area outside this impressive castle. There are carved fireplaces, wide staircases and the moat is full of leaping fish. Mostly in ruin, where vanquishers have partially pulled it down but it is well worth a visit.

 

Next was a quiet road by pine forest with views of the Lake District across the estuary. The route took us through a caravan park and at the other end was the Golf Hotel where we stopped for lunch. An average of 10.3 miles per hour was a good speed for our morning.

 

After lunch we rode through Ruthwell,  apparently famous for its 7th century stone cross that was broken up as an idolatrous monument in 1640 but then restored by the parish minister in 1820 and now stands in the church apse.  Dr. Henry Duncan, the minister, also founded the first Trustee Savings Bank. We rode by the Savings Bank Museum in this village.

 

We passed Annan with its red sandstone buildings on the tidal river. Just beyond at Eastrigg we passed the Devils Porridge Discovery centre, a local community initiative showing life in the first World War when this was part of a huge munitions factory creating Cordite. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle coined the term devils porridge for the nitroglycerin and gun cotton paste, made here.  This cordite was the propellant used for bullets and shells. 

 

The route became more industrial with nothing of note except the last house in Scotland, Gretna where marriages of eloping couples have taken place since the 1800s. We didn’t pass the famous Blacksmiths at Gretna Green though we did renew our vows there on our 25th wedding anniversary.

 

We cycled close to the motorway and it was unpleasant. Even when we were in the lanes cars seemed to speed by. There were pine forests and evidence of rhododendron eradication. We stopped in an industrial park outside of Carlisle for Asda and getting our bearings. We knew the Premier Inn was nearby but hard to find on the bike. Eventually with the help of the sat nav, we were soon checking in and the bike put in the disused recreation room for the night.