Day 54 – Farringdon to Beer

 

 Date: Sunday 19^th September 2010   Distance: Miles 31.43

 

Breakfast time wasn’t made clear to us and we waited to hear sounds of movement. I crossed my legs for much of the night not wishing to encounter the dog or anyone else downstairs. Eventually we had it at about 9.15 and they did say “but it is Sunday! and we had to make our presence felt first.

 

We cycled out the way we walked to the pub and then it was back on the cycle-way with quieter roads. We stopped at a National Trust property called A La Ronde which is well worth a visit. It’s a 16 sided building that 2 young spinsters used to house curiosities they collected on their continental tours in the 18^th century. Designed by the elder of the 2 cousins they also lived in it quite eccentrically. They decorated it with unusual crafts. I loved the room with friezes of feather flowers, leaves- exquisite colours and patterns. In the roof space, a dome filled with shells like a grotto and it seems like some very modern sorts of decorating have been tried out here- paint marbling on the door frames and quilling on little boxes. We don’t recommend the tea- room which was rather uninviting. Maybe this depends who is working at the time!

 

After reaching Exmouth we rode alongside the sea for 2 or 3 miles along the prom.

Then it was on to Sustrans route 2 to East Budleigh where we stopped at the Rolle Arms. Perhaps we are picky but this was less than satisfactory too. We were here one and a half hours, mostly waiting for the food, which was standard, already cooked and with not many customers why was it so long? Hope it has changed since 2010!

Foolishly I ordered bread and butter pudding (old habits die hard) without custard. It took simply ages to come and was corners of bread probably cooked in a microwave with 5 or 6 sultanas placed somewhere- no egg, butter, spice, sugar or even milk detected! It did come with a dollop of clotted cream at the side though!

Feeling cheated we left to beautiful views across, once we reached the top of a steep incline and then it was a steep drop down to Sidmouth. The sea was grey and the buildings, though regency hadn’t got the character that I had expected from a Folk Festival location. There were no cycle way signs and even the Tourist information couldn’t point us in the right direction. We found our own way out, passing a donkey sanctuary on top of the next hill and then good sign-posting all the way down. It seemed like we went through a flower tunnel in the next village- lovely. Then progress was slower as the roads narrowed, with cars using passing places so necessary in the West Country. At Branscombe we visited an NT forge- lovely items made here but expensive, from door hinges to elaborate pieces of art costing hundreds.

 

After the next mile up it was down into Beer, full of flowers and characterful buildings. Our B and B had an open door with a settee beside it and we were welcomed by the owner who is from the village, as are 4 generations of her family. She took the tandem through her dining room out to the back yard (everywhere looked spotless so I was worried at this)

 

Walked to the harbour, only minutes away and the little museum there that was still open at 7pm. Then we had a good meal where I had a lovely pudding served by efficient and friendly staff. We like Beer. Our bedroom, the largest and cheapest of our break gave the best night’s rest and we enjoyed breakfast in the morning when we had to collect our car from Exeter for the journey home. The tandem stayed tethered in a car park while we travelled there by bus and it was really nice to see over the hedges for a change!