Day 68 – Sittingbourne to
Gravesend
Date: Sunday 24th April 2011 Distance: 50.17 Miles
We
left at 9am and went through Bobbin to Lower Halstow on little lanes beside
apple orchards and right along the edge of the coast. At Upchurch we thought it
appropriately named because of the unusual double roof to the steeple. Friendly
locals, but with nowhere for coffee meant we wouldn’t linger.
At
Lower Rainham we took the Saxon Shore cycleway. The entrance was covered in
gossamer seeds, maybe dandelion or old mans beard, looking like frosting over
the foliage. The path had very narrow vehicle restrictions that wore out the
spanner from turning the handlebars, to get through, so often. Here we heard
the first cuckoo and it was a pretty ride via Horrid Hill( it wasn’t that
horrid) with plenty of wildlife in the estuary and wrecks of old boats.
We
rode through a marina and at the leisure Park we had our coffee break at a
picnic table. The official cycleway took us across many junctions in the road
with traffic lights wasting a lot of time and if we had gone the other way
round we would have only crossed once. No-one else was cycling. We wonder
why????!
We
weren’t allowed in the historic dockyard. Building works caused confusion about
the direction of the path but we soon picked it up again in the Old Town
streets. This is an interesting part of Rochester with old book shops, tea
shops and the Cathedral and Castle area was lovely with good views. Beside the
Cathedral must have been an ancient tree with masses of cherry blossom making a
pretty spot amongst the buildings.
We
rode over the old bridge across the Medway and were soon in Strood. We turned
off the road just at the Strood sign and passed a Russian submarine( hammer and
sickle on its side) languishing in the river. It was apparently bought from a
Folkstone owner who had exhibited it there, but now it sits with a list and
rusting away without any sign of anything being done to it for the last 5
years.
We
had a steep climb up by more white cliffs and we were in a Ministry of Defence
area again riding alongside wire fences guarding a dog training area and
poisonous dangerous substances. A gate had a sign saying” Welcome to the Naval
base” on the left side and on the right “No admittance M.O.D.”
There
was more pretty cycleway(1) to the pub at Lower Upnor, “Kings Arms” where there
was nice pint of Adnams. Heard a cuckoo again. Glimpsed old sea defence at
estuary edge- Castle Upnor from Tudor times but to visit was really expensive
and it didn’t look much.
Next
came a desolate section on quiet roads. We could see power Stations but avoided
Grain with its oil depot and where a new road was being built. A new bit of
road took us past clay pigeon shooting and yet another cuckoo was heard. We
could see Canvey Island and Southend across the water.
Needing another break we stopped at another pub with a tiny caravan park beside it. There was an Easter Egghunt going on for the children. They had to find plastic ones to exchange for quite generous large chocolate eggs.left out and had to succumb to some chocolate fudge cake with ice cream. Mmm. It looked unlikely that we would make the 4.45 train but we pushed hard( thank goodness for the intake of sugar)in case. It had been hilly in places but at least we had freewheeled a bit. A cycleway would take us into Gravesend but the narrow gap between tubular bars meant we had to keep getting off and turning the handlebars again and we had already lost about 1 hour and a half today from doing this. What with this and the lumpy chalky surface catching the train seemed less likely. The cycleway ended in a derelict industrial area with broken glass and no clear clue which way to go. Fly tipping is rife in this part of the world! Out in the street there was still no sign of a station but after asking several people we eventually rolled up as the train was arriving. With no time to get a ticket we threw the bike on and bought a ticket when we changed at Rochester. The nearest station was at Newington where there was no easy access for bikes or disabled- up over bridge over railway line- and we cycled back to the Premier Inn, where we were just 5 minutes late for a 6.30 dinner. 50 miles and a hard day!
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