Day 51 – Plymouth to Bigbury

 

Date: Thursday 16^th September 2010   Distance: 31.5 Miles

 

After a drive down and good night at Premier Inn, Plymouth, we had a lovely breakfast. Unfortunately there was a mishap- floods of orange juice over and under the table from the dispenser when the lever got stuck. We could only see glasses of orange on our table, which was worse! Hope it wasn’t us!

Disaster no 2 came when we took our hire car to Enterprise. On picking up one of the panniers and then resting it on the seat I discovered a squashed, full yoghurt all over the floor and then a mess on the seat too from the bag’s bottom. Although I tried to clear it up I made yoghurt trails all over the place.  Nobody else seemed bothered!

The next thing was we looked for the bike-capes, as the sky looked like rain was imminent. No capes to be seen. We had an abortive attempt at finding a bike shop but gave up, finding it too difficult and that was with a sat nav.

 

It was a grey start but warm enough to not need a coat. Or could it have been the hills? Bob said we’d climbed 3,000 feet by the end of the day.

After 9 miles it still felt like we had hardly left the city suburbs. There was a bit of shared coastal path near Plympton where there was quite a lot of industry- gas, offal- all sorts of smelly stuff.

 

At Newton Ferrars, a characterful place, we stopped by the estuary having a Firsty Ferret and a Badger beer outside the Dolphin Inn. We couldn’t see any open sea but the view was pretty and there was a bit of sun. Bob had a doorstep granary sandwich and I had lovely carrot soup with my own doorstep.

In order the get round the river estuary and on with our journey we had to walk a short footpath. Then we were surprised at how many times we had to get out of the way of cars( really large ones too) down these narrow lanes.

 

Either side of the road there were fields with around 50 pheasants that scuttled to hide in the sweet corn (probably the attraction) or hedges as we rode past. We did another bit of Coastal path from Charlebury and then arrived at Bigbury on Sea at  4-30.

 

There were people surfing. A narrow causeway looked like a biblical parting of the waves leading to a small Island, Burgh. It would have been nice to go across and see the famous hotel of Agatha Christie repute though it stood out white, impressive and typical of the roaring 20s and 30s. We would have a liked a ride in the funny sea tractors but they weren’t running.

 

I saw one building only with solar panels despite ideal sunny positions. We noticed that the farmers were able to supplement their income by using their fields for extra car parking- £3 a day and labelled as Economy Parking being a fair way from the sea too.

By evening the sun was glorious and we stayed at The Royal Oak 2 miles up the hill.

Evening meal was good and we enjoyed a drink or two of Doombar.

 

Day 50 – Looe to Plymouth

 

Date: Wednesday 23^rd June 2010   Distance: 18.11 Miles

 

 

In the morning, after reclaiming our bike, an old salt, a lovely man, but stereotype of a fisherman nonetheless, congratulated us on our mode of transport for the Cornish terrain and said if we got lost on the way to Plymouth he would come and get us and take us there by his boat. Very Tempting!!

 

Another scorcher of a day with a very long hill out of Looe but not arrowed this time. Pat’s water was still in the fridge in the room and so we stopped at a farm shop to buy some more. It was here we turned off the main road at the top into the pretty lanes that were at last more down than up and well turfed in the middle from lack of vehicles.

 

 We could see Looe through gaps in the hedges for a long while until we came into Seaton. The sand here was grey and fine and we sat on a bench and looked out to sea. No dolphins or seals!! There was a long climb, the longest for quite a while but then it was more undulating and we managed a 32 mile per hour. An impatient driver overtook us on a bend and Pat closed her eyes waiting for the crash then luckily the oncoming driver stopped, just in time. The more dangerous the roads,it seems , the less careful the drivers. We saw more cyclists today than any other maybe because the hills are less.

 

We ate at Anthony but unfortunately it was stale beer and home cooked from packet frozen food- disappointing as our last meal in Cornwall. The National Trust property, Anthony was lovely. It was full to bursting with portraits and fine furniture but it wasn’t so “hands off” as in many stately homes. Pat was perturbed to think that we had the current owner’s bedroom on the tour which could have done with some open windows! There were Alice in Wonderland features since the recent film located there.

Bob ate his first (bought here )ice cream in over 20 years – made sugar free.

 

We left for the ferry at Torpoint. The road was busier and with signs of outer city sprawl. The ferry was huge and one of 3 continuously running. Bikes and cyclists were free. Chatted to cyclist who travelled across every day. He said a lot of young men went out for the night and having a bit much to drink ended up going back and forth on the ferry while they slept it off. He had a wife on the Wirral but he worked in Plymouth during the week.

 

It wasn’t far to Enterprise Car Hire and our waiting Corsa. By 4 pm we were on our way home over 2 days earlier than expected and 276 miles further along our route. The World Cup match, when England wasn’t doing so bad and won 1-0, thinned out the traffic on the roads and we made the journey in really good time.

 

 

 

Day 49 – Mevagissey to Looe

 

Date: Tueday 22^nd June 2010   Distance: 28.27 Miles

 

We enjoyed our breakfast hopelessly watching for dolphins. Once on the road we bypassed St Austel and took a tea break at Tesco’s as other places had nowhere to leave tandem. We came upon a very nice cycle way and were surprised that we could make it part of our journey. It went through woods, by a stream and campsite- completely traffic free. There weren’t so many of these in Cornwall near the coast.

We took a ferry from Fowey to Bodennic. Huge ships were piloted across our bow as we went over. We decided we didn’t like Fowey. It was full of quaintness, but for example ,the bank closed at 1 pm ,though we did use it’s frontage for parking as there was nowhere else suitable.for a large heavy bike. There was such a lack of space, cars had to stop for people walking ,let alone the bike. The tea shop was 14^th century but Pat couldn’t drink her tea because it smelt of bleach. The waitress reminded me of the receptionist in Doc Martin as she had just had her cards read and was missing opportunities apparently.

 

Up from the ferry we had 20 minutes of quiet road before the next influx of cars. It was less of a hill than at King Harry and then came many lovely lanes until we reached Lanreath for a friendly place ,The Punchbowl Inn. Bob was offered a taster of the landlady’s favourite brew. Pat visited the church opposite that was full of perfumed bridal flowers. It could have been a flower festival. It sounded like the local community were all involved from the collection box in the pub. Managed to post some cards here while the post lady waited for “time”.

 

Bob was keen on finding a bridleway that would take us into Looe and we had almost given up after several false tracks when we found it much much later than expected. It was rather rough, tough and hilly with a lot of walking on the boggy bits. Much better though than going up the narrow road .It came out in Looe at the estuary and near a massive out of town car park which caused some misgivings. The quay split Looe in 2 halves and is an interesting place full of character and characters. There were many fishing boats of various sizes and on the quay side sheds for icing and weighing the fish. The tide was out and the area had more than its fair share of egrets. Pat watched what she thought was a seal a little way out to sea until someone burst her bubble and pointed out a snorkel and black rubbered arm above the sealine.

 

We found the B and B where the tandem was taken through the kitchen into the backyard but then we were taken to another house a little way down the road that adjoined it. Still a family house but not quite what we expected especially when we had breakfast on our own in the couple’s living room while Australian guests took up the dining room. We believe we were overspill in the B and Bs son’s house.

Anyway though strange it was a good location for the harbour and pub where we spent a couple of hours listening to and joining in with sea shanties yet again with a group of people called Minor Quay. We were ushered in to sit at their table and we wonder if it was a case of mistaken identity. Pat was congratulated for her singing in Falmouth night when we hadn’t yet reached the location, mistaking her for one of the singers in the festival. Perhaps this was happening again and then realising their mistake they gave up eye contact- perhaps in case Pat offered to sing. It was a good night though and we had very good seats!

 

Day 48 - Falmouth to Mevagissey

 

Date: Monday 21^st June 2010   Distance: 27.02 Miles

 

The B and B reminded us of a small seaside hotel with maids and silver service. Bob liked it better than Pat who thought it a bit pretentious. There was nowhere to lock up the bike except to a tree at the side of the building despite on booking being told there was somewhere inside to put it.

 

We cycled out of Falmouth and through Penryn which were busy. Then it was through lanes of Perrarnwell and Curnondowns with no refreshment stops until Trelissick Gardens just before the King Harry Ferry. These were much nicer than Trebah even though you could hear the sounds of the ferry  throughout the garden.

 

There is more colour here and the sensory garden is full of delightful smells and texture. There are immense trees and those of characterful shape. We watched a robin degrub itself- disgusting but fascinating as he seemed to have so many on his tiny body, which he promptly ate- the ultimate carry- out!

 

On the walls of the café were British wildlife photos- some we recognised from SpringWatch on TV. They are actually very exciting and inspiring. Trouble is the camera is never on hand when you’d like it.

 

The King Harry ferry operates on huge chains across the water and this is the noise we heard from the gardens. Cycles were charged 50 pence and pedestrians free.

We crossed here when we did Lands End to John o Groats and tired and hungry were peeved to find the local hostelry at Phillergh, closed till the evening and then we still had to find somewhere to stay. We never leave it that late anymore and this time  the pub was bustling with a microbrewery attached and also a farm shop.

 

Along the way, back on route 3, when met 2 German cyclists looking for a Chinese Garden?? and a man who had cycled 65 miles today. Phew! He kept pace with us for a while but we lost him after the caravan completely blocked the road and met another car. There must be many fraught moments of impasse on these narrow, high- hedged lanes.

 

B and B was hard to find being a modern house in a road that sounded like several others but despite being on an estate there was a lovely view out to sea over the tops of the houses opposite from the upstairs dining room. It was minimalist but good with a Jacuzzi outside if liked. It was a short walk through an alley to Mevagissy where a local pointed out the best place to eat- Fountain Inn, a really old pub that did huge plates of fish and chips for under £6. It wasn’t cod or haddock and we would have liked to have known its name but no one seemed to know-perhaps they were afraid it would put people off. Pat thought it like Vietnamese river fish.

 

Walking round the harbour someone stopped to talk to us and we recognised the lone cyclist’s voice and his ear which had a section cut from it! He said he wondered if he would recognise us with our clothes on. Cheek! The sun stayed out till late and we sat looking out over the harbour for a bit. It’s a lovely little place!

 

Day 47 - Wendron to Falmouth

 

Date: Sunday 20^th June 2010   Distance: 16.01 Miles

 

It was another great breakfast with a friendly couple to chat to. Bob mended the bike of grandchild of the B and B people. That sort of thing makes his holiday.

This was a very nice laid back place to stay.

 

We cycled to Glendurgan Gardens (NT) only to find that because the incumbents are Quaker and therefore it’s closed on Sunday. Not far away is Trebah, another garden and we were lucky to get Bob in free as it was Father’s Day and we had a pound off for cycling.

 

We were a bit disappointed with the lay out but it seems they have been having problems. Rhododendrons had been removed because of oak sudden death and large areas had been cleared. There wasn’t a lot of colour for June. There was a private beach at the end of the garden that gave lovely views and a large party of teenagers had been having an art class there. They were very self -conscious about their pictures which were mostly left behind. We liked the garden’s recycling policy and the iced water available free in main café.

 

A little pond was teeming with tadpoles at different stages of their life cycle- so many that there couldn’t be any fish to eat the frog spawn. We watched dragon flies laying eggs on leaves in the water after an aerial courtship dance while turquoise blue damsel flies flitted in and out. It seems to us that the natural flora and fauna here are the most worth seeing as the planting is most uninspired.

 

It was busy cycling to Falmouth. We visited the Castle Owned by English Heritage. This was OK if you like cannons and items of warfare. The castle is bare walls, with spiral stairs up and down for views and a feel for the dungeon.

 

There are 2 ferries in Falmouth but they are both quite small boats with slippery steps to carry a bike down. Only one actually saved us miles if we used it so we decided to cross the estuary higher up.

 

This was the first B and B on a main road though we had a back room with a king sized bed and nice comfy settee. We found a real ale pub where sea shanties were sung all night as part of the sea shanty festival and despite having to leave to eat food in another hostelry we were soon back for a convivial atmosphere and a jolly good sing!

 

Day 46  - Lizard

 

Date: Saturday 19^th June 2010   Distance: 31.44 Miles

 

Lovely breakfast! Couldn’t manage the hot croissants as well so was told to take them for lunch. Really nice people. At Gweek we spent an hour or so at Seal Sanctuary that though expensive we felt it was worth it. It had a beautiful location on the Helston River and was such a contrast to the bird sanctuary with plenty going on and a chance to engage with the animals.

 

We saw herons but disappointingly no kingfishers on the river despite all the branches hanging over the water.

 

We stopped at Mullion, the Old Inn for a couple of pints and yet more fish and chips and mushy peas for Bob and because Pat is thinking of her weight she had a cheese and pickle sandwich and the breakfast croissants instead!!! Bob’s peas were yellow anyway and his left over batter was shaken into bits all over the table by a rogue seagull. Vandal!

 

We rode to the Lizard, owned by the National Trust and England’s most Southerly point. Unlike Lands End it has kept it’s natural character without side shows and massive commercialism. It was a lovely walk down a very steep and narrow rock daisy bestrewn lane from which you could walk to the lighthouse or village on footpaths. There were gorgeous views out to sea.

 

We rode back to Gweek via Goonhilly Satellite Station which now has a Future World Exhibit along with all the satellite dishes that you can see for miles around. We had visited this when the children were young and there wasn’t too much to see. I think it was just a bus tour then. It still had a look of abandonment. Around it there are pleasant nature reserves full of heather and invisible wildlife.

 

We dined early at Gweek and hurray they cooked fresh vegetables, before a long trek back up the lanes to the farmhouse, discovering all that’s left of Merther-uny church of the 1500s. It was a rough hewn stone with Celtic- like inscription( in memory of the vicar,so an old book on the area said.)  We had cycled 31 miles but it was an easier day overall.

 

Day 45  - Mousehole to Wendron

 

Date: Friday 18^th June 2010   Distance: 24.29 Miles

 

On Friday after breakfast we visited the local bird hospital just into Mousehole. It was not at all exciting and it was obvious the staff didn’t want us there. Maybe it was because they were having a picnic breakfast though the notice outside definitely said they were open at 10 for visitors. There were tiered cages with bedraggled crows, magpies and gulls. They didn’t even open up the shop. We put some money in the collection box and left rather disappointed.

 

When we arrived at Penzance via some pretty coast cycle routes  on its outer edge we found a laundrette to refresh our worn clothes. We roasted in the Queen’s Hotel conservatory, even with the windows open, while we relaxed with a coffee as the washing washed.

 

Marazion is a lovely little village but with nowhere to park the bike we carried on to be hailed by some ladies just up the road. They said there was a lovely garden to visit free of charge and they had “cakes to die for.”  So we went in OK’d by the bouncers. I think they really wanted the locals and local business people. It’s called the “Sandrose Project” They were very kind giving us a lot of time showing us around. The garden was inspired and I was surprised to see a family staying there playing in the garden. It is a house where bereaved families from the loss of a child, can go to relax and be together in beautiful surroundings. The project was helped by lottery money and they wanted to up their profile in the community. The view of St Michaels Mount is stunning and they get a free pass to visit the island. We watched people cross the causeway by foot very slowly! In a glass case in one of the rooms is a rose naturally made by the winds on the sand in the desert. It’s exquisite. The cake and tea was very nice too.

 

We had lunch and a pint (though Pat had eaten too much cake) in a local pub that was a bit rough but had a splendid view again of the Mount. Then it was a private road to a sandy cove called Praa Sands with extensive views again. Portleven was next but we didn’t delay. There was a very busy road into Helston so we stopped at Tesco’s for a pit stop and collected something to eat al fresco at the B and B because we know it is situated several miles from a pub or restaurant.

 

There was a little bit of main road out of the town then it was all lanes to Merther-uny Farm. Traffic was charging around with flags flying for the world cup and we were getting a bit nervous. Then someone cut in close and we were cursing them when they stopped and waited for us. They were guests at the B and B and they were looking out for a couple on a tandem. They said that although the road looked unlikely it did lead to the farm. It was  certainly lonely, high banked and dark with foliage.

 

It is an old farmhouse with a huge granite firplace and our room seemed enormous after the other B and Bs. We were staying here 2 nights so we could complete the Lizard peninsula. From our bedroom we could watch the birds on the bird table and it seemed a constant stream of all British varieties. The tandem went to bed in a gated poly tunnel guarded by a mad cat. It jumped out of the tunnel over our heads after dashing futilely around the plastic walls looking for an exit. Perhaps it had bad memories of bikes!

Day 44  - Hayle to Mousehole

 

Date: Thursday 17^th June 2010   Distance: 33.97 Miles

 

We visited St. Ives being overtaken by cyclists on their way to Land’s End from John o groats. Several tried to be encouraging, telling us that we were nearly there! Little did they know! As usual the road into town was very busy and the little narrow but quaint streets couldn’t cope with more than one sort of traveller whether on foot, cycle or car and heaven help the lorries! There were shops to suit all pockets and some very unusual ones. Craft work of all sorts and Pat bought some beautiful leather baby shoes for granddaughter, Lizzie.

 

The hills were steep every where. A fit population we would think. It was a demoralising climb out because of the traffic, which we had to continually stop for but we were cheered by the stunning views of the sea. Granite outcrops balanced large boulders on smaller ones, defying gravity. When the through traffic to Penzance left the route it was much less busy. We stopped at the Tinners Arms that looked like a lovely place for a B and B being near to Zennor. It was characterful with nice friendly people, but we had to press on after coffee and tea.

 

We have been told that the best Cornish pasty comes from McFaddens in St. Just but we still preferred our Warren’s version and they are made here too. The pub we chose of the two there, encouraged everyone to bring their own food, as the chef’s wife had just had a baby and he was on paternity leave. The landlord said he was so good he didn’t want to spoil his reputation by having a stand in.

 

Pat visited the medieval church which had some lovely 15^th Century secco wall paintings. Throughout our journey we have been struck by the natural beauty of the churches built in simple granite often in Cornish random rubble type of construction that doesn’t at all convey how elegantly they sit in their surroundings.

 

On we went to Lands End., which is so commercial we just stopped for some photos and the toilets,

 

Next we came to Lamorna’s Old Mill shop missing out the cove at a dead end. The vegetation is very lush here.  In the garden a peacock was being fed by an elderly lady, who said she had kept the shop for over 5O years. I must have seen her before as this was my 4^th time here. As she had no other customers and I had troubled her to come into the shop, I felt compelled to buy something, settling on a tea cloth as something light to carry on the bike. With a bike weighing 7 stone with all the luggage and bike essentials we are loth to buy many souvenirs.

We carried on to Mousehole where on a hill above was Raginnis Farm in an 18^th century thatched cottage- our next B and B. There were lovely views and a10 minute walk down to Mousehole. We ate at The Ship on the harbour front. We were served really quickly and it was the best value meal so far at just under £7.00.  Lovely fish and chips with bread and butter and a side plate of barbequed peppers and courgettes as an extra because Pat was tired of the statutory peas and salad- delicious.

It was a good night in the cottage, quaint with squeaky floors but peaceful none-the- less. It is part of a 120 acre tenant farm and the hosts had lived there 40 years. The lady was a few months younger than Pat,which made her feel ancient

Day 43  - Crantock to Hayle

 

Date: Wednesday 16^th June 2010   Distance: 26.88 Miles

 

Breakfast was better than expected, with fruit salad, cereals and cooked breakfast all served in the conservatory, where there were beautiful sea views. It’s a shame our room was so small.

 

We rode out through Cubert with quite a lot of ups and downs. Perranporth was very busy. We stopped at the outskirts of St. Agnes at a funny little tea –shop, where the ceiling was completely bedecked with cups and mugs, old and new, porcelain and china. No photographs allowed, which was puzzling. He also sold old postcards and a bit of bric-a-brac.

 

Porthtowan was next. Stopped by a sign “Pasty & Pint” but as it was by a cycleway for the Cornish Coast to Coast they had a rush and there were none left. Amazingly busy bike shop was part of the shop, it was just in the middle of nowhere. Next to Poltreath for late lunch of jacket potatoes, sitting in squashy leather chairs- heaven for a sore bottom! Extensive and busy climb out was quite stressful but then along a welcome ridge-top to Hayle.

 

For several years since doing Lands End to John ‘o Groats we had hankered for a pasty from a particular shop in Hayle that we relished. We weren’t sure if it was because we were really hungry or if it really was as nice as we remembered. Big pieces of steak and tasty vegetables in its pastry parcel. Just as delicious! We shared a medium one just to try it in case you think we were being greedy. Tried to book somewhere for the night but everywhere we tried was full so we hoped we’d have more luck later.

 

We hadn’t gone far outside the town when we saw The Old Quay House Inn and Motel right on the water’s edge. You couldn’t find a B and B closer to the water and the birds here caused a few problems judging by the anti- twitcher signs. We were glad we had our binoculars and the chalet we had gave enough room for the bike to be brought inside.

 

The tide comes in very quickly here and there were whimbrels feeding at sunset. It was a quiet night, despite being near a main road to St Ives and the 3 beds we had to choose from was good due to a sore back. We managed to book the next 3 B and Bs for Thursday, Friday and Saturday which was good going!

 

Good evening meal but breakfast a little disappointing, being greasy and less choice than we had been accustomed too at the little B and Bs.

Day 42  - Pendoggett to Crantock

 

Date: Tuesday 15^th June 2010   Distance: 30.91 Miles

 

After a lovely breakfast we had quite a sociable time talking to other guests from the Netherlands who loved the idea of our “project” as they called our ongoing cycling trip.

 

We left for Port Isaac famous for its role in the “Doc Martin” series on TV. We didn’t recognise anywhere except for the beach. This was used by cars as a paying car park surprisingly and the tide was quite well in.

 

Lovely lanes took us by Port Quin where it was quiet and no parking. Several rented cottages maybe National Trust looked very nice, especially one right on the bay.

Up to Doyden Point(NT) still few visitors, then honeysuckle strewn lanes to Polzeath where it was very busy. Many people were surfing and a local café owner was making the most of this. He looked and sounded like the plumber/ restaurateur in Doc Martin, very focused on money making. We think he might own the car parking rights to the beach, which must be a lucrative form of income with little outlay.

 

At Rock we caught the ferry for Padstow. It was £4.50 in total and we got soaked backs when the boat changed direction to avoid the sand banks and the wind sent up high waves. As always the views are lovely.

At Padstow there was a Lobster Hatchery that encouraged visitors and many ways of buying fish and chips both down and up market.

We found a bike hire place that sold bike bits at the start of the Camel Trail. This was necessary for new brake pads as old ones were destroyed yesterday. The tread on the tyre was worn down too by the naff brake blocks so we bought a new one of those too. Have to say that the absence of burning rubber smells meant that the hills had evened out a bit for a little while at least.

At a pub in Padstow we had cheese and onion sandwiches, chips and Doombar! Best of the trip so far.

It was a long hill out of Padstow, then magnificent coastal views on three sides as we ride the lanes across to and beyond Newquay to our B and B at Crantock. From the lounge there was a lovely view of the sea but our room was rather small and pokey, It was called Crantock Cottage.

It was a short walk to the Cornishman Inn, which we chose for our meal though the pub a few yards away was more characterful. I have been missing vegetables and they were serving some with meals so that was preferred.

We walked through the churchyard, where the last man to be put in stocks there had escaped. This

beautiful village is full of interesting alleys and buildings. The beach is backed by sanddunes and research tells us we  missed a lovely old cave carving of a local woman who got cut off by the tide and drowned.

 

Day 41  - Crackington Haven to Pendoggett

 

Date: Monday 14^th June 2010   Distance: 16.73 Miles

 

Julie from the B&B at Crackington Haven kindly followed us the 30ish miles to Barnstable where we needed to return the hired car. Although we had brought it from our home area we were able to leave it here. We had a quick coffee in McDonalds before returning in her car to her B and B and the bike. What a lovely lady! Her husband gave up his profession to be a local postman which he really enjoyed in this beautiful area. They told us that the caterpillar from yesterday is probably a  Garden Tiger Moth.

After a quick lunch we left them at 12.30 a bit embarrassed to have taken so much of their time. It was on to Boscastle.

 

We caught up a camper van, so we stopped to let it get ahead, the roads being so narrow, and we took some scenic pictures only to catch it up again and have to stop once more. The roads were a sure test for patience!

 

Boscastle was very busy & touristy. Stopped at the Mill Kitchen for our lunch, all they had left were 2 pasties and 4 sandwiches. It was a nice strong cup of tea and there was somewhere to lean the tandem out of the melee.

 

Walked along the stream until it became the harbour. There was seaweed on the harbour bed as the tide was out and boats were grounded. It was picturesque, but spoilt rather by the crowds. Verdant banks were topped with outcrops of slate. Pretty little houses & paths went through gardens full of coastal flowers (and a pungent curry plant.) It is hard to think that this was all devastated by a flash flood in August 2004. Hopefully the deepening of the narrow river running through the village and the management of trees above will decrease the chances of it happening again.

 

We visited the old post office at Tintagel (National Trust). They let us take the bike into the back garden through the main entrance. There were tapestries and quilts on display in a quiet haven unlike the touristy bustle of Boscastle. Maybe the flood made an impact on future tourist numbers.

 

The views were all hazy, but we could still see the GCHQ satellite dishes north of Bude. However we had not one glimpse of Tintagel castle. We had been there before so decided not to visit as we had less time today to play with.

 

The route had quite steep hills and we stopped for some cars to pass as we wobble as we struggle up. Also it is a big feature of Cornwall and Devon that the roads are not only narrow but winding and edged with high vegetation making it hard for even bike and car to pass. There were good views of the coast though. The last 5 miles were quite fast surprisingly.

 

The B&B was Lane End Farm at Pendoggett. It is a first class place to stay and a good position for a B&B. They kindly put our bike in the the conservatory as we do prefer it to be tucked away out of sight. Our room had a fridge with real milk which we really appreciated. http://www.laneendcornwall.co.uk

Local pub was only a few hundred yards to walk, the Cornish Arms and it had all the trappings of being a posh expensive pub but it didn't live up to expectations unfortunately. I notice that it has 5 stars on trip advisor now though.

 

Day 40  - Bude to Crackington Haven.

 

Date: Sunday 13^th June 2010   Distance: 26.01 Miles

 

We drove down to Crackington Haven on Saturday in a  hire car, stopping at Snowshill NT. somewhere really near Evesham. It's a wonderful place full of interesting objects. a Mr Wade had collected his whole life,(highly recommended.)

 

We stayed over night at Crackington Haven, which is south of Bude where we ended the last leg. We decided to cycle to Bude, although this didn't add any miles to our coast ride. The cycle ride back did though. On Monday morning we would return the hire car making complicated logistics.

 

After a brief down and up through the valley at Crackington Haven, the road was flatter than we had been used to. Then it was onto a ridge. We only got off to walk 3 hills. The downs gave us enough acceleration, without burning rubber, to roll up the other side most times. Managed to buy some fruit at a village called Week St Mary’s in the post office. (Average speed 8.5 for the ride to Bude.)

 

We caught up a tractor carrying rubble, and detected a smell like stale kitchens / rubbish heap. After several cars went by smelling faintly of chip fryers we decided that maybe there was a market here for chip oil fuel.

 

The rock formations at Millock were very interesting, with the lines of the strata running in many different directions.

 

Bob was very rude to a passing cyclist who suggested that Pat was just a passenger, a simple *iss off made me feel a lot better as he cycled off into the distance with his stripped down bike, and all alone.

 

We would like to comment on the useless lady in the tourist information at Bude, who could only find two B&B’s at £150 a night! Shame the place we found for the next night was registered with the tourist board. On reflection she did the places at Port Issac, where we wanted to stay, no favours. It is a place with very limited parking, and here she had 2 people with a bike who didn’t need a parking place. We spent 12 days in Cornwall and didn’t use the tourist board again, either their offices or web site.

 

On a final note, it was a beautiful walk through the woods of just over a mile down to the pub at the edge of the cove from the B&B, back up of course. The Coombe Barton Inn is well recommended, the best staff of anywhere we visited. The food and beer were both enjoyed on the two nights we went. The sunsets were really lovely, and we must comment on the huge hairy caterpillars on the road back from the pub, some of course had been flattened.

 

The B&B was 14 Lundy Drive Crackington Haven. http://www.crackingtonhavenbandb.co.uk/

and we mention this because they went above and beyond what was expected of B and B hosts as you will see tomorrow.

 

Day 39  - Hartland to Bude

 

Date: Sunday 23rd May 2010   Distance: 18.19 Miles

 

Our pub B&B at the Anchor at Hartland was a disappointment. The room was very basic and bed hard. It was a lovely star strewn night and I wished I was out walking with the women’s group on the Tarka trail, instead of tossing and turning. Several times I let in the night noises of hunting owls and gazed at the trillion pinpricks of light, trying not to wish the night away too fast. Book read and TV not working, one of us could sleep anywhere!

 

There were scrapings and whirrs from decorator’s tools outside the open bathroom window in the morning and on leaving the room we nearly tripped over a flex that obviously led to the man, who seemed hyperactive, dodging from one location to another. I wouldn’t mind so much only our bathroom hadn’t got a curtain!

 

After enduring less comfort than an old style youth hostel we went for breakfast-no choice for time- between 9 and 10, only to find that although we could see the table laid we were locked out of the room. Breakfast was ok when it came but it certainly lacked the hospitality touch.

 

When we left I am sure the decorator was burying a dead cat. What a strange place!

Up the road we passed a yellow-coated old gent we’d seen out yesterday driving a motorised carriage at a fair pace up the hill. Doesn’t do much for the ego to be out- stripped by one of these but we were hot already!

 

First point of note was Bursdon Moor that consisted of 2 cattle grids and an information sign but there was a good view out to Lundy. We zoomed down the main road for half a mile and after three -quarters we were in Cornwall. We went up 5 arrow, down 3 single and then 1 double- arrowed hills and the smell of burning rubber was ever pervading. Mixed with this was the scent of wild garlic in the hedgerow. I am sure that bluebells shouldn’t be out with the primrose but they looked spectacular together.

 

We passed a very well protected area full of satellite dishes and what looked like an almost uninhabited purpose built area for personnel accommodation in the middle of nowhere. We could see this from many view -points as we continued keeping the coast on our right and later it seemed to be quite high, not apparent when we were right by it, but makes sense if it’s purpose is communication.

 

Our Pit stop was at Duckpool, where we sat at the edge of the beach of no sand just flint like rocks – though the tide was quite high- watching impressive surfing and listening to the sound of the giant waves. A girl, in an ice cream van, was reading about beekeeping and selling Hokey Pokey, honeycomb ice cream. We were boring and had tea!

 

The last 4 miles were the easiest of the 3 days and we managed 30 mile an hour at one point. We ate a very tasty Sunday Roast at the Globe Hotel in Bude and discovered we had averaged a decent 7 mile an hour despite the semi-tropical heat – up to 30 degrees- and the hilly terrain.